Kenmore Elite Refrigerator Model 795.7977 Fan Not Running
Chosen Solution
Hi @zookster ,
What is not cooling the fridge, the deep freezer or both?
Which fan is running? The evaporator fan, the condenser fan or both?
The evap fan will non run with the doors open -put on't want to blow cold air the door - so you'll have to listen for it running. Close and open-door policy and listen if you can listen information technology start / hold on with door close / open.
Is the evaporator getting icy perfect? It is bottom a panel in the freezer compartment as is the evap fan.
Here is a link to the parts for your electric refrigerator. It is ready to hand arsenic it gives an idea of the general location of the parts
How-do-you-do @zookster ,
I know you said that you curbed the refrigerating but do you know that for the Kenmore Elect series appliances (refrigerators) that thither is a warranty of Five Eld on the Sealed Cold System and Ten Years on the Running Compressor This is non as good as IT sounds. Aft 1 year you still have to pay for the confinement to get it repaired under warranty, just not the parts. Something to entertain if you find that the compressor is faulty.
Here is the link to the warranty provisions. Scroll down to refrigerators
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Zero fix for mind either, it's the compressor which is an epidemic happening these LG refrigerators. They only unalterable anywhere between one to three years. And similar stated above no one wants to work connected them. I did get a local anesthetic repair guy rope to come out arsenic soon as he looked at it he said throw it off and buy a new one. He said Samsung and LG make the worst refrigerators on the grocery with the to the lowest degree warranties. He said I make love it's horrible news, I would love to take in your money, but you need to curve your losses and buy a honest icebox. I was wise putt whatsoever money into my LG icebox would be a devastate because information technology would make grow the identical problem in short-order again. He said purchase either GE, Whirlpool, Beaver State Frigidaire. I opted for a new Frigidaire with a 5 year warranty
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Sexual conquest 6
My Kenmore Selected refrigerator is having the same problem. Information technology's 2 years past and I've been wise to trash it. Does anyone what IT? I spirit sick about it going to the landfill. It's in awesome condition new than the compressor doesn't work as per deuce repairmen!!!! Model 795.74023.412. Also, there's a class accomplish lawsuit for these refrigerators that I've signed up for, some of you Crataegus laevigata wish to do the same:
https://www.classaction.org/lg-refrigera...
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Make 6
Class-action suit Suit:
https://www.classaction.org/lg-refrigera...
I submitted my information and they got back to me interrogative for more details about 1 week later.
Good luck! Sears/Kenmore/LG have been unethical and misleading with these refrigerators. Companies cannot trespass of their customers like this, it is but totally unacceptable. If they made a bad product, they need to own that 100%.
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I have the aforesaid issue. I found the technical papers with around primitive person troubleshooting procedures but enough to get an melodic theme of what is going along. It says to check out the voltage level on the important control room connector to the compressor, "CON201". With the compressor connector disconnected, unplugging the fridge and pluggin it in again and measure the the voltage happening "CON201". After 30 seconds it should go to 200VAC. Mine did non. The measurements were jump completely concluded from almost 12VAC to 70VAC. The sheet recommended testing the voltage with the compressor connector connected and after 10 minutes tally the electric potential on "CON201" (you testament have to push test leads into back of connector to make contact). It should glucinium 80VAC. Mine was not. IT was all finished the place like the other measurement. So the next morning the fridge is suddenly operative normally once more. I decided the check the spouting voltage at "CON201" again. It is still jumping every over just this clock time information technology is jump up preceding 100VAC. Don't know how oblong it will work and I don't trust IT. It may have been stuck in defrost mode only the alone way to fix the issue seems to comprise to replace the main controller. Getting the part will take days as most places Don River't stock IT.
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Howler…. sounds like were every in the cookie-cutter boat here, approx 4 geezerhood ago we purchased a Kenmore elect electric refrigerator and just last month the 2nd compressor went verboten just the Lapp. Turns out that when the sears tech came and installed the new compressor the first time, he informed us that it was a bad design from LG and that the condensing coil had to besides be changed out at the same time with the compressor due to the fact that the condensing coil was made out of Al and non steel. The problem with the condensing coil being aluminium is that over time, the refrigerant starts to break down the condenser (being atomic number 13) and the petite contaminants start to swim within the system and that can crusade the capillary tubing tube to go plugged and not cycle any refrigerating within the system so cooling effect doesn't take place. Just last-place week I decided to put across my refrigerant gauges on the system and exactly what i had expected, when i restrained out the pressures on the gauges the high side gauge was reading approx 110 PSIG so i knew that the compressor was stressful to push the gas, and the low side was in the veto side where it was actually in a hoover. Just to inform most of you away there a refrigeration system is never supposed to run into a vacuum say, it mightiness beryllium around 5PSI and that would be if the coils were ice-clogged just never into a vacuum, especially when the evaporator and freezer coils are as warm arsenic they are. And so when I take in that the low lateral of the system is in a vacuum state and the output go with of the compressor is reading 110 PSIG pressure then there is a restriction some where in the system. normally at the front side of the capital tube therefor not allowing the gas to seethe off in the coils and impulsive down temps to get cold. One more thing to think about, if aside some chance the service tec didn't utilisation dry atomic number 7 to pressurize and flush out debris inside the system after installment the new compressor then the organisation could still embody contaminated and another nonstarter is bandaged to happen. Looks like i'll be repairing my own fridge since i cant depend on a sears tec to get it right the first time especially after purchasing this unit with a warranty. Soh looks like i'll be disassembling the new compressor from the lines and cover flushing the smooth organization with FJC 2032 Flush Solvent and dry nitrogen. Dry nitrogen is used instead of the 404A gas soh as non to send IT into the environment (Would really hate to flummox caught doing this and loose my refrigeration licence) If you get the chance check out this Utube video (Clearing a blockage - J D Nel Infrigidation) to understand exactly what needs to be finished to remove the blockage and hopefully put your fridge back into service.. And yes indefinite Thomas More thing to remember, always make a point that your rooter and condenser is as fair as possible so that your compressor doesn't take a chance of linear to calefactive and cooking the oil inside the compressor and plugging up the refrigerant lines.
WOW!! what a job we're all facing with this fridge design "Gallic door" Anyways, believe IT surgery not the real problem with this fridge design is not the compressor, its the way the refrigerant is being distributed to the icebox evaporator. I've posted already in account " how a refrigeration system industrial plant, and ways to clear out the entire scheme after a compressor burnout" Lets see, first off, the problem was that when they designed this fridge the manufacture installed an aluminum condenser spiral either to save money or who knows wherefore?? Anyway when this electric refrigerator runs for awhile the refrigerant and or mineral anele starts to break up this coil and cause contaminants to float inside the system, sure the filter/dryer catches these particles but over time this dryer starts to get along plugged and pose problems for the entire system. The best thing I found out to do is to call Sears and have a service detective. ejaculate out and change kayoed some the compressor and the condenser coil (new conception is made of steel now)at the same time and besides put in a new filter dryer (which they should do anyways) so that you can convey these parts under the guarantee. Then making %#*@ careful that he or she either blows out the entire system with nitrogen operating room even better yet flush out the scheme with FJC 2032 Flush Solvent to get disembarrass of these particles. My electric refrigerator was still not cooling perfectly, thus what I ended up doing was newspaper clipping unconstricted the system of rules and dynamical out the 3-way refrigerant valve (this valve supplies throttle for some the refrigerator and the Deepfreeze cooling evaporators) it either sends gas to the electric refrigerator Beaver State the freezer depending on which i inevitably cooling system at the time. And also changing out the capillary tube that feeds the fridge evaporator, this ceiling thermionic valv is ferret-sized for both freezer and fridge to run at the Saame fourth dimension which runs better when their some running. Only what happens is that when fridge is calling for chilling and not the deep-freeze this cap tube-shaped structure organism the size it is and only one of the tubes flowing refrigerant at the metre overloads the compressor and information technology really struggles to push this small quantity of gas. Long story short, I ended up correcting this problem with stabbing open the back of my refrigerator to get access to this capillary and removing it and installation the next size up tube to help relieve this pressure and it's worked great ever since…. The original size of this pipe is rough 0.031 I.D. so I exchanged it to the side by side sizing 0.040 I.D. and one more thing like I said in one of my other posts is that when i originally set out my refrigeration gauges on the system I was getting a indication of 110 gauge squeeze on the piping position and pulling itself into a vacuity on the low side. This type of forc you definitely don't want to discove especially with information technology running into a vacuum state. You see with this compressor running in the vacuum state information technology gets absolutely none cooling system (or a slight amount of refrigerating flood back titled super heat to keep this compressor poise) My refrigerator now runs or so 36 degrees with IT set to 34 and the freezer runs at around -10 degrees. With the gauge reading now around 110 psi on the soprano side which is nifty, but now i'm acquiring around 7-10 pounds per square inch on the low side of meat definitely GREAT!! and this unit now purrs like a kitten.. And compressor stays nice and cool!!!
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We are along our second Kenmore junk elite model 795.740 31 atomic number 29 ft. First stopped cooling with no error codes, called home warranty service and the sent Sears out. What a cluster. They ordered parts to psychometric test the Freon, one week, then more parts, cardinal to a greater extent weeks, fianally aforementioned it was a Freon leak somewhere in the cabinet somewhere would non be able to revivif the building block. One month without a fridge and home warrantee paid most of the money to replace. We purchased the same unit again. My married woman is not fortunate every bit fewer than 3 years afterwards we are in the same situation and waiting for the sears third party to start and tell us what's wrong. None error codes. Upper side is near 40-47 and freezer below is high 20s.
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I wear't have intercourse if this has anything to do with my refrigerator working again, merely after a week of no cooling or freeze I put IT in and out of demo mode a couple of times. The next day it started impermanent and has worked nowadays for individual months. I put on't lie with, but it doesn't be anything to try and see if it works.
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Kenmore elite less than 2 years old stopped cooling/freezing a few months agone. We called a tech out. He aforesaid the control panel needful to be replaced and so I ordered a parvenue one. The day it arrived the fridge started working again after I put it in and unconscious of exhibit mode several times finished several days corresponding mortal else hither suggested. We decided to hold onto the part for a bit bit. A month and a fractional later and it stops chilling/freezing over again. Got a tech resolute take it and he pulled the drawer altogether off and aforementioned there was no freeze model which means the compressor isn't working. The compressor is covered by Sears, just non the labor. In the meantime we have bought a Swirl. (Just an FYI, the Sears 5 class warranty was over $1000 so we didn't stick it. The Lowe's and Home Storehouse warranties are less than $300 for 5 years and you get 30% of information technology back if you don't use it. Also when you purchase the water filters afterwards the first one, you can take the receipt and sustain half your money back during the 5 years.) I still take in a large piece of junk sitting in the garage that I'm trying to work what to do with.
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Thanks for the heads up connected the class action courting. I just submitted my information/situation.
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Well I replaced the compressor in mine and it worked for about 10 months and right away is broken over again. This time the problem is that the refrigerator is not cooling sufficiently (55-58 deg) but the freezer seems Oklahoma (5 deg). Evaporator fan in the fridge is running and the evaporator volute in fridge is only slightly opaque (first few inches). The stinky and low line pressures when compressor is running are about 125 and 7 respectively, which is approximately where they were when the compressor was changes (100/0 according to my notes). Indeed the compressor has not failed this time, only for both reason the refrigerator evap is not chilling. I hypothesize IT could be a restriction or mayhap the 2-way valve that supplies the two evaporator circuits is not in operation properly. I presume it is non meriting mending again unless someone knows otherwise.
So… I am considering buying a new icebox. How lavatory I make a point not to get another model that uses this problematic LG compressor? Mine was proprietary Kenmore.
Btw, I did sign on to the class action. Thanks for that info!
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Okay, first, is the deep freezer practical, but not the fridge? If so, the vent is thick. Air out flows through a air out in between the fridge and freezer. 2 things to do would be to defrost the system of rules by turn it off. After it is fully defrosted, clean IT, open the vent and clean it, check for all the world that could block air flow. Plug it back in and feel for aviation flow, peculiarly between then electric refrigerator and freezer.
Also, listen to hear the compressor kick off. If you act up not hear it go polish off, then you may need a kickstarter. It's same a giant capacitor you go with the fridge's compressor to get it to debate. You can order one online or buy one at a fridge parts permutation store.
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Score 1
Had the sears repair guy call in regarding kenmore selected fridge non chilling only 3 years aged. Compressor shot ordered new one under warranty. Call out tip $99 wait 3-4 weeks for technician to regaining and instal new compressor another $260. LG debris never again. All the while sears render and heavenward sell monthly guarantee on all your kenmore purchased items for $50 a month.
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Kenmore Elite group 795.7402 is notorious for linear compressor issues. Vendee Beware!!!!
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How-do-you-do @Linda McCoy
Is it to a higher degree Beaver State less than 5 years old?
If IT is to a lesser degree 5 years from the date of purchase there is a 5 year maker's warranty on the irrevokable system (see p.3).
You will have to invite any travail but not for any parts that are found to be faulty.
If the problem turns resolute be the compressor so there is a 10 class manufacturer's warranty thereon.
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Any updates? We have the same issues. Brought it to repair store and they said it English hawthorn embody the mother board.
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After all the headaches with sears and spending hours and hours and i mean over 8 hrs on the phone every single order organism transfered from section to department, i gave up. Compressor and freon was covered nether warrantee simply they wanted 600 for labor so i decided to buy out a compressor online and install IT myself. 180 for compressor and 30 dollars in silver rods needed for brazing the lines.. and some freon… i have everything done on my have for under 250. Fridge works superfine now but IT seems to run 45 mins at once to an hour and only shut off for 4-5 min or so and then compressor kicks back on… any ideas? This is a really horrible fridge….. we love it but hate IT at the assonant time…. i dont think i recall it running that long and only 4-5 Min dialect rest time for the compressor….doesnt seem right to ME. Any advice will Be appreciated…
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The compressor should have a 10 twelvemonth warranty. I had mine for 5 years and it was covered. The labor isn't covered and it cost ME $380 and some change to fix information technology.
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Can anyone direct me to how to approach getting complex in the class-action suit causa? This is crazy. We are reasonable people, spending our hard earned money happening a firearm of junk. I don't guess our concern is getting money for nothing. That's what Sears did. To the highest degree of us want nothing more than a refrigerator that works. Cooling and freezing makes us contented and I don't think it's an insufferable request.
Thank you for any direction Oregon advice you can provide.
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Do not but a French door refrigerator away Kenmore Elite (actual manufacturer is LG) . The compressor is a known problem. It costs over $2K and is known to rupture down with 18 months. Firm, same publication, as compressor has non been recalled operating theatre changed. Have dealt with this 2x in 3 years. All the decent technicians say you, it testament break again or just get disembarrass OR it. It is that worse. Client Service takes hours of calls, thrown whol over the world. Last year, no functioning icebox for 1 month, this yr + Corona
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Is your freezer cold and in operation, but the refrigeragtor is close, replace the frreezer light switch!
This switch controls the cooling to the refrigerator section. Its an $8 dollar set off. Operating room , simply pry IT out of the casing and unplug it. You should get wind the drive lead off. Hope this helps you!
Garrett.s.daniels@gmail.com
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Hi @Larry Bounds
How old is the refrigerator?
On many fridges the certain system has a producer's warranty of 5 years on parts (not Labour). The residual of the fridge unremarkably only has the 12 months. Check the warranty on your model (look for in the user guide) to see what it says.
The sealed system includes the compressor, evaporator, condenser, filter dryer and related to pipes etc.
If the problem is anywhere in that area leave out the pipes where they are encased in the cabinet insulation then it send away be regressive.
The refrigerant would have to be extracted, the faulty part replaced, the sealed system needs then to be evacuated (vacuum cleaner created) and new refrigerant break in and then the scheme needs to be time-tested to make in for that the pressures, temperatures etc, are OK and past resealed again.
If it is no thirster under warranty then it is more a decision of whether it is economically viable to roll in the hay or not given the age and condition of the refrigerator
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Hawaii @magen
What is the model number of the icebox?
2 year old refrigerators are rectifiable and because it is an Elect mannikin there is a 5 year parts only warranty on the sealed system and a 10 year parts solely warranty on the compressor which is finer than all but other models anyway as parts in the corked system or the compressor are expensive.
Delight iterate the problem with the refrigerator?
Is information technology that the freezer is temperature reduction OK but not the refrigerator, is this correct?
If so then at that place is a defrost problem.
This could be caused by either a faulty defrost heater, a inaccurate defrost thermostat, a blocked drainage from the freezer to the evaporator pan operating theater a faulty control circuit card.
Once your role model is known I can direct you to where the parts are located etc thusly that they can make up checked
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I had one of these. Firstborn cardinal times I had a problem I was able to google information technology and apply a hair drier to defrost cooling pathways. Next time total loss. Determine it guy came over and said everything looks Hunky-dory thermostat is a little out of tolerance so he is going to order one and riposte and replace it. I aforesaid if the thermostat is the job wherefore is it calling for cooling with the compressor connected 24 hours a day. He eventually said He would be second and supplant the compressor. Afterward that spent more than time with the hair dryer the the compressor went prohibited once more a couple eld future. Saami fix it guy came back and right away said he would replace the compressor and coil so clearly by that time this was a known supply no cost to me. Worked for another two years then same problem. That was the last straw. still under guarantee but I tossed it out and got a new brand. Experience your warrantee resort if it is free like I did but eventually you are going to get tired of not having a fridge for 2 months every time this happens (they need to get along out and diagnose then issue forth out and fix it). Manage not buy this model.
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It is The compressor!!! Also, too much water pressure messes with the ice maker.
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Mine was the compressor first sentence, then it was a hole in the fridge evaporator coil second clip. Been good for the noncurrent year.
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Kenmore Elite Refrigerator Model 795.7977 Fan Not Running
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